The country where one of the 7 New Wonders of the World is located – Petra. Country of the Cold Sea, Martian desert with plasticine mountains and red air. A country of beautiful ruins and ruins. The country is a clear example of the disappearance of the largest and strongest cities and peoples. This is Jordan. Evgenia and her husband made an independent trip to Jordan and shared this story and useful life hacks.
Let’s get acquainted)
My name is Evgenia. I am one of those people who love change, although I did not know about it before. For almost 10 years I worked in a large federal company (the last of them was in the position of a manager), then, realizing that I was not living my life, I quit. When she quit her job, she believed that she had fled from the office and more unloved responsibilities – to freedom. She ran not from, but to. But in fact she was looking for herself.
Having tried several projects, including organizing tours to Altai and Khakassia, she came to work in the fitness industry, was a co-founder. Almost 2 years ago we left Siberia and all projects and moved to Crimea. Now we live as a family in Sevastopol. I have my own project @crimea__arenda on Instagram, where I look for interesting accommodation options and share with my subscribers. The project has already developed to 40 thousand, although it is not even a year old.
What impression did your holiday in Jordan make on you?
Jordan was the land of my ten year dream! The country of the Cold Sea, the Sea of Floats, the swollen mountains of the Dana and Petra reserves. Land of the Martian Desert with plasticine mountains and red air. A country of canyons, to which for many millions of years now emaciated rivers have given all their strength, making them cast.
A country of beautiful ruins and ruins. The country is a clear example of the disappearance of the largest and strongest cities and peoples. The country where one of the 7 New Wonders of the World is located – Petra. ⠀
A calm country living in harmony with restless neighbors. A country of people in love with their king and queen. ⠀
Country of free wifi at the airport. The country of thousands heard by “Velcom Tu Jordan” and “Ai Love Rusi”! And (the very thing that creeps through to goosebumps): the country of not indifferent, unhurried people. Not a substitute for benevolence and sincere hospitality, a country of gifts and compliments. ⠀
You have to go to Jordan to immerse yourself in benevolence, indifference, compassion. If you are ready to accept the sea of attention, care, plunge into their life – you are clearly there. It is ideal for those looking for free travel and diving in the country.
Need a Visa to Jordan?
Yes, you need a visa, but visa processing does not take much time. I recommend buying the Jordan Pass to visit the country, which allows you to enter the country without a visa and visit most of the attractions for free.
Jordan Pass is a paid single e-ticket that costs from $ 99 to $ 112 (depending on the number of days you visit Petra).
Your Jordan itinerary.
On the first day we went to the East of Jordan towards Syria. There are many military men. Gray terrain. Strong winds. A bit cool. A large camp of Syrian refugees. Protected and existing for several years. Locks. A lot of old and beautiful, but by the end of the day bored with the lack of any colors. We are in a rented car. We have Jordan Pass, which allows you to enter the country without a visa and visit most of the attractions for free. We get a lot of attention! Lots of!
A little disappointed in the country of our ten-year dream, the next day we go north. And there is another country: greenery, colors, heat, mountains, a more prosperous and cheerful life.
On the third day, we went to the Dead Sea, visited the Wadi Mujib canyon, then the gorgeous Dana Nature Reserve, my dream – the Wadi Rum desert, and then went to the resort of Aqaba, where there is a little sea.
What to visit in Jordan?
Desert Wadi Rum… Take a jeep ride, be sure to book an excursion, there are very beautiful views!
Dana Nature Reserve… We took a guide, we had a real hike. Our guide Salim arranged for us not only a hike, but also cooked dinner over a fire, and literally fed us from his hands. Their benevolence still impresses me, nowhere else have we met this.
Of course, famous Petrabut there are a lot of people there.
Wadi Mujib canyon… You need comfortable shoes as you will be walking down the canyon with water.
And just drive along the serpentine road along the Royal Road!
Did you manage to visit any non-tourist places in Jordan?
Yes! We developed the route ourselves and at that time (2017) there was very little information about Jordan.
There was a situation where we booked a hotel for locals by mistake. This is a hotel for Arabs, its concept that men and women rest separately. For men – huge pools, territory, if a woman wants to be near – only fully dressed. There is a separate indoor pool for women. It is shallow. To get to this pool, you need to drive for about 2 minutes, then there is a checkpoint – women in uniforms who let you and things pass through a metal detector, pick up the phone. This is an area fenced off like a stadium by a fence in a circle of 20 meters) Only women and children rest there) without telephones)
Another situation was when we turned off the Royal Highway and drove up somewhere, climbing a serpentine for a long time, we arrived at the hot springs. A closed territory, a checkpoint, a paid entrance, they look at us suspiciously, let us through, take money. My heart began to ache for another 10 minutes before all this. Only later did we realize that we were at the hot springs, where only locals and according to local customs relax: men separately, women with children separately. The women are completely wrapped up. It was a completely non-touristy place, not like modern Aman, where women could afford jeans and a headband. Here only the eyes are visible. And I am a redhead, curly, in a long skirt, with a slightly bare belly. We were called to the police, they talked to us and made us very welcome. We wanted to leave immediately, but they would not let us in. The Jordanians are very hospitable, they showed us the whole territory (it was like I was walking naked past these men and women)) Then they wanted us to free the hot springs, they began to drive out all the people, we stopped them (this all went by practically without understanding each other. there was our already familiar Ali, who translated the conversation for us). Then they took us to other closed sources, for “VIPs”, we also refused. Then this guy who took over us, his name was Ali, said to get into his car, and we drove to his own hot springs) He gave us tea, we talked somehow, took a dip in the pool, and he took us back to car, offended by us that we decided to give him money and that we refused to meet the sunset with him. An amazing country! Amazing people! It is hospitality and friendliness at every step. I have never met so much attention, compliments, smiles!
What local dishes would you recommend to try? How much do they cost?
The prices are very affordable! I remember, in Aqaba, we ate in a delicious cafe, where we ate a lot and paid 400 rubles for it. And this is in Aqaba, in the tourist “capital”. Falafel, babaganush, hummus, many delicious weaknesses, especially kunafa! Perhaps I misrepresent the name of the dishes. Jordanians have many delicious meat dishes, but we don’t eat it.
Is it safe in Jordan?
The safety of tourists in the country is probably the most important thing for Jordanians. I have never heard so many smiles from the police and the phrases “Welcom the Jordan”! The country is very hospitable! We were literally protected! We were lucky, on the second day we met a Jordanian, Ali, who at one time lived and studied in Russia, he was our guide on the phone: every day he called and asked how things were, took care of us and communicated with the locals for us, when we could not understand each other. We have been to many non-tourist places where English is not spoken.
How much does it cost to travel in Jordan?
The trip cost us 220,000 rubles. for two.
- 75,000 RUB – these are tickets for two (we flew with a transfer in Moscow. Novosibirsk ‒ Moscow ‒ Amman).
- 21,000 RUB – car rental for 14 days.
- Jordan Pass – 12,000 RUB (we took with the possibility of staying in Petra for 2 days. But, to be honest, one day in Petra is enough. And you can just save on the Jordan pass – a single ticket that does not require an additional purchase of a visa).
- Accommodation – about 40,000 rubles. And we stopped three times in tents in the camps. It’s very romantic and interesting! Breakfasts are included everywhere
- Excursions: 9,000 rub. – by jeep in the Wadi Rum desert, 7000 RUB – a hike in the Dana Nature Reserve, 3400 rubles. (for two) – hike along the Wadi Mujib canyon.
Everywhere we were independent tourists, without a group.
- The average bill in a cafe is 400-600 rubles. (if not tourist). Tourist cafes – an average bill of 10 dinars.
Where do you recommend booking a vacation rental in Jordan?
We booked everything on Booking. We rented a car right at the airport (booked in advance). Along the way, we changed housing a little: they were recommended by local guys, whom they met
Did you take out travel insurance?
Made out. I don’t remember the exact prices. About 2,000 rubles. Again, this was 2017.
Your recommendations for travelers visiting Jordan.
Take a lot of gifts with you: any small souvenirs. They love Russians! And, conceived by doing something for you, they don’t take money. There were often situations when we wanted to thank the locals, but we had nothing!
Olga, something like that!
Thank you for the opportunity to remember everything again)
Interviewed by Olga Avrakh
Photo by Evgeniya